Restudying the Historical Textiles in Iran(Based on Methods of Classifying Designs and Motifs)

Document Type : Research Paper

Authors

1 Associate prof. of Art Research, Alzahra University, Tehran

2 Ph.D Stud. of Art Research, Alzahra University, Tehran, Iran, (Corresponding Author).

Abstract

 
In a general perspective, the classification of Iranian historical textiles is subject to dispersal. This turmoil becomes more highlighted when some researchers use two terms of design and motif interchangeably. This is while, design signifies a general combination and motif is the smallest significant component of the design. Hence, each of these two concepts defines a different quality, so that their interchangeable use is not only inappropriate but also disrupts understanding of the actual meaning. The prevalence of this inadequacy is to the extent that the authors of this article, in many of their references, were compelled to modify the terms of design and motif, because in most cases, the creators of the handful of reliable sources available on Iranian hand-woven products, have ignored the difference between these two terms and have considered them equivalent. On the other hand, the classification of the types of traditional fabrics, which are usually defined differently in the ruling periods of the historical dynasties, paying attention to the gist of motifs has earned the greatest effectiveness. Therefore in most studies of Iranian hand-woven textiles in terms of designs and motifs, the composition of the textiles of different eras have been analyzed in terms of the theme and categorized as human, animal, plant, geometric and other types of designs. Due to the lack of reliable theoretical foundation in the aforementioned method, the ultimate feedback is limited to description only. On the other hand, because of the shortcomings resulting from the certainty of this method, there is a tendency for each research to add a few imaginative categories to the type of historical textile which it is related to. In fact, due to lack of stability required for a clear categorization, each researcher make adjustments to their study according to its goals in order to achieve the desired results. To mend this flaw which originates from the concern of most researchers in areas other than applied arts, the authors of this article attempted to find the answer to the following question: How can various types of textiles be classified with regard to the principles of traditional arts on the methods of adding motif to the design? This analysis by utilizing library studies proves analytical descriptive that thematic classification, due to its inefficiency, has led to a seemingly organized but fake dispersion. However, following the common classification in traditional arts by the method of adding motifs to the design which results have already been tested in carpet weaving which is an art parallel to traditional textile art, a more precise classification can be achieved with a structural framework in which handmade textiles of different historical eras can be defined. In this approach, by making a distinction between the terms design and motif, each base image can be in the context of each design and yet avoid making fundamental changes in its identity. In order to overcome this defect and organize things, using the same method of classification of other traditional arts such as different types of carpets seems efficient. In this approach, the types of fabrics are categorized from a different perspective and according to the manner in which the motifs are spread in the design. Accordingly, the types of these textiles can be categorized to (1) story (2) inscription, (3) scattered, (4) altar, (5) medallion, (6) Vagireh or tangled, (7) framed, (8) Muharramat or striped and (9) combined, based on the ways the main design is executed, including independent, axial symmetry (reflexive) and repetitive symmetry (thorough). This is a nine-part classification, capable of covering all historical textiles and ending the disorganized status in the field, with no manipulation needed. In this method, considering the differences between design and motif, any motif is introduced under the name of the main design, such as Shah Abbasi scattered or shrub tangled. Ultimately, this paper distinguished between the applied and effective terms of design and motif and created a reliable categorization, which put an end to subjectivity in scientific researches on future studies (report, comparative or approach-oriented studies) about traditional textiles.
 
 

Keywords

References

اربابی، بیژن(1387). ارزیابی شیوه­های طبقه­بندی نقش و طرح فرش ایران، گلجام، دوره 4، شماره 11، 57-74.
اربابی، بیژن(1393). کارگاه صنایع­دستی(بافت)، چ. دهم، تهران: سهامی خاص.
استون، پیتر اف.(1391). فرهنگ‌نامه فرش شرق، ترجمه بیژن اربابی، تهران: جمال هنر.
امیرزاده، مرجان(1389). گرافیک نقوش پارچه­های ایرانی از دوره صفوی تا پایان دوره قاجار، پایان­نامه کارشناسی­ارشد ارتباط تصویری، تهران: دانشگاه هنر.
تام­سن، منصور(1389). طراحی نقوش سنتی، چ. دهم، تهران: سهامی خاص.
حسن­پور، محمد و چیت­سازیان، امیرحسین(1386). نقوش محرابی و نمادها، گردآوری ابراهیم عزیزی و احمد لطفی، جلد 2، مجموعه مقالات دومین سمینار ملی تحقیقات فرش دست­بافت، تهران: مرکز ملی فرش ایران، 525-544.
حصوری، علی(1385). مبانی طراحی سنتی در ایران، چ. دوم، تهران: چشمه.
خلیل­زاده مقدم، مریم و صادق­پور فیروزآباد، ابوالفضل(1391). بررسی تطبیقی نقوش پارچه­های صفوی و گورکانی، نگره، دوره 7، شماره 21، 20-37.
دادور، ابوالقاسم و حدیدی، الناز(1390). بررسی نقوش منسوجات قرون اولیه اسلامی(از قرن اول ه.ق تا اواخر سلجوقی)، جلوه هنر، دوره 3، شماره 6، 15- 22.
رضایی­آذر، ندا(1390). بررسی طرح محرمات در قالی­های ایل قشقایی فارس، نقش‌مایه، دوره 4، شماره 9، 65-73.
روح­فر، زهره(1380). نگاهی بر پارچه­بافی دوران اسلامی، تهران: سمت.
ژوله، تورج(1381). پژوهشی در فرش ایران، تهران: یساولی.
صمیمی اول، محمد(1383). اصول و مبانی طراحی فرش ایران، تهران: عابد.
صوراسرافیل، شیرین(1380). طراحان بزرگ فرش ایران، تهران: پیکان.
طالب­پور، فریده(1386). تاریخ پارچه و نساجی در ایران، تهران: الزهرا و مرکب سپید.
طالب­پور، فریده(1390). بررسی تطبیقی منسوجات هندی گورکانی با پارچه­های صفوی، نگره، دوره 6، شماره 17، 15-29.
طالب­پور، فریده(1395). کارکردهای طراز در دوره فاطمیان، هنرهای­زیبا(هنرهای­تجسمی)، دوره 21، شماره 2،  55-64.
عنبری یزدی، فایزه(1394). هندسه نقوش، چ. پنجم، تهران: سهامی خاص.
غزالی، ربابه(1395). جایگاه پارچه­های دست‌بافت در طراحی لباس مشاغل(مطالعه موردی: هنر شعربافی)، جلوه هنر، دوره 8، شماره 15، 95- 107.
فربود، فریناز(1388). بررسی تأثیرات و پیامدهای انقلاب صنعتی اروپا بر هنر صنعت نساجی ایران در دوره قاجار(از منظر طراحی نقش)،رساله دکتری پژوهش هنر، تهران: دانشگاه تربیت مدرس.
فتحی، لیدا(1386). خط­نوشته­ها روی پارچه­های دوره اسلامی، مدرس هنر، دوره 2، شماره 2، 63-75.
موسوی، بی­بی­زهرا و آیت­اللهی، حبیب­الله(1390). بررسی نقوش منسوجات در دوران هخامنشی، اشکانی و ساسانی، نگره، دوره 6، شماره 17، 47-57.
نامجو، عباس و فروزانی، سیدمهدی(1392). مطالعه نمادشناسانه و تطبیقی عناصر نقوش منسوجات ساسانی و صفوی،  هنر(دانشگاه علم و فرهنگ)، دوره 1، شماره 1، 21-42.
نصیری، محمدجواد(1374). سیری در قالی­بافی ایران، تهران: پرنگ.
نیک­بین، سارا(1389). بررسی تطبیقی نقش­مایه­های گیاهی در منسوجات مکتب اصفهان عصر صفوی و دوران قاجار. پایان­نامه کارشناسی­ارشد پژوهش هنر، اصفهان: دانشگاه هنر.
وکیلی، ابوالفضل(1382). شناخت طرح­ها و نقشه­های قالی ایران و جهان، چ. دوم، تهران: مرکز برنامه­ریزی و آموزش نیروی انسانی.
هدایتی، سوده(1389). بررسی تطبیقی پارچه­های صفوی و قاجار از منظر نقش­مایه ترکیب­بندی و مضمون. پایان­نامه کارشناسی­ارشد پژوهش هنر، تهران: دانشگاه آزاد اسلامی.
 
Refrences
Amirzadeh, M. (2010). Graphic Designs of Iranian Fabrics from Safavid Period to the End of Qajar, M.A. Thesis for Visual Communication, Under the Supervision of M. Dadgar, Tehran: Art University (Text in Persian).
Anbari Yazdi, F. (2016). Geometrical Patterns, (5 nd ed.), Tehran: Iran Printing Bookstore (Text in Persian).
Arbabi, B. (2009). Assessment of Classification Methods for Designs and Motifs of Iran’s Carpet, Goljaam, 4 (11), 57-74 (Text in Persian).
 ----------- (2014).  Handicraft Workshop (Weaving), (10nd ed.), Tehran: Iran Printing Bookstore (Text in Persian).
Dadvar, A. & Hadidi, E. (2010). Studying Early Islamic Textile Designs (Beginning of 1st Century AH to Late Seljuk Era), Jelve-Y-Honar, 3(6), 15-22 (Text in Persian).
Farbod, F. (2008). Study on The Effects and Consequences of the European Industrial Revolution on the Textile Industry of Iran During Qajar Era, Ph. D. Thesis in Art Research, Under the Supervision of M. Khazaie,  Tehran: Tarbiat Modares University (Text in Persian).
Fathi, L. (2006). Scripts on Islamic Period Textiles, Modarese Honar, 2(2), 63-75 (Text in Persian).
Ghazali, R. (2016). Position of Hand Woven Fabrics in Design of Work Wear Clothing (Case Study: Art of Sherbafi/ Weaving Poems), Jelve-Y-Honar, 8(15), 95-107 (Text in Persian).
Hasanpour, M. & Chitsazian, A. (2007). Mehrabi Motifs and Symbols,  Collection of the 2nd National Conference on Hand Woven Carpets Research, (Vol. 2), Collected by Ebrahim Azizi & Ahmad Lotfi, Tehran: Department of Commerce of Iran National Carpet Center, 525-544 (Text in Persian).
Hassouri, A. (2006). Foundations of Iranian Design, (2nd ed.), Tehran: Cheshmeh (Text in Persian).
Hedayati, S. (2010). Comparative Study on Safavid and Qajar Fabrics from the Perspective of Motifs Composition and Theme, M.A. Thesis in Art Research, Under the Supervision of M. Shayestehfar Tehran: Islamic Azad University (Text in Persian).
Khalilzadeh Moghadam, M. & Sadeghpour Firouzabad, A. (2011). A Comparative Study on Designs of Gurkanid and Safavid Textiles, Negareh Journal, 7 (21), 20-37 (Text in Persian).
Mousavi, B. & Ayatollahi. H. (2012). Study on Motifs of Textiles in Achaemenid, Parthian and Sassanid era, Negareh Journal, 6(17), 47-57 (Text in Persian).
Namjou, A. & Forouzani M. (2014). Symbolic and Comparative Study of the Elements of the Sassanid and Safavid Textile Images, Journal of Art, 1(1), 21-42 (Text in Persian).
Nassiri, M. J. (1995). Persian Carpets, Tehran: Parang (Text in Persian).
Nikbin, S. (2010). Comparative Study of Herbal Motifs in Textiles from School of Isfahan During Safavid and Qajar Era, M.A. Thesis in Art Research, Under the Supervision of F. Farbod, Isfahan: Art University (Text in Persian).
Rezaie Azar, N. (2011). Study on Moharramat Design in Qashqaie Carpets in Fars Providence, Naghshmayeh, 4 (9), 65- 73 (Text in Persian).
Rouhfar, Z. (2001).  Taking a Look at Islamic Textile Production, Tehran: Samt (Text in Persian).
Samimi Aval, M. (2004). Fundamentals of Iranian Carpet Design, Tehran: Abed (Text in Persian).
Soursrafil, Sh. (2002). Great Designers of Iran Carpet, Tehran: Peykan (Text in Persian).   
Stone, Peter F. (2012). Oriental Rug Lexicon, Translated by Bijan Arbabi, Tehran: Jamal-e-Honar (Text in Persian).
Talebpour, F. (2007). The History of Iranian Textiles, Tehran: Alzahra & Morakabe Sepid (Text in Persian).
------------------- (2012). A Comparative Study on Gurkanid and Safavid Textiles, Negareh Journal, 6(17), 15-29 (Text in Persian).
 ------------------- (2016). The Application of Tiraz in Fatimid Era, Journal of Fine Arts, 21(2), 55-64 (Text in Persian).
Tamson, M. (2010). Traditional Design, (10nd ed.), Tehran: Iran Printing Bookstore (Text in Persian).
Vakili, A. (2003). Recognition of Iran and the World’s Carpet Designs, (2nd ed.), Tehran: Ministry of Education (Text in Persian).
Zhuleh, T. (2002). Reaserch in Iranian Carpet, Tehran: Yasavoli (Text in Persian).
منابع تصاویر
URL1:https://www.hermitagemuseum.org/wps/portal/hermitage/digitalcollection/11.+textiles%2c+tapestry/281016 (access date: 06/01/2017, 1:30 p.m.)
URL2:http://www.textileasart.com/persian-textile-1291.htm (access date: 06/02/2017, 9:40 p.m.)
URL3:http://www.textileasart.com/persian.htm (access date: 06/04/2017, 7:25 p.m.)
URL4: https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O157318/dress-fabric-unknown/ (access date: 06/03/2017, 2:30 p.m.)
URL5:http://www.clevelandart.org/art/1916.1313?collection_search_query=qajar+textile&op=search&form_build_id=formQL66IVyRNCNJ6KnbDX7yp5pSXB7s6SkzHkm9UIwc7W0&form_id=clevelandart_collection_search_form (access date: 06/01/2017, 2:20 p.m.)
URL6:http://www.textileasart.com/persian-textile-2360.htm (access date: 06/04/2017, 7:40 p.m.)
URL7: http://www.textileasart.com/persian-textile-2126.htm (access date: 06/02/2017, 1:30 p.m.)
URL8:http://www.textileasart.com/persian-textile-2992.htm (access date: 06/03/2017, 3:10 p.m.)
URL9:http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/85531?sortBy=Relevance&ft=iran+textile&offset=0&rpp=20&pos=3 (access date: 06/04/2017, 8:30 p.m.)
URL10:http://www.clevelandart.org/art/1915.656?collection_search_views_fulltext=iran%20textile&collection_search_views_artist_full_name=&field_images_field_large_image_url=All&field_highlight_museum=All&collection_search_query=iran%20textile&op=search&form_build_id=formMFPwBjQ70FCrqPP9M58NeEtvBDXkDIFeFFBjz_fjdbk&form_id=clevelandart_collection_search_form (access date: 06/01/2017, 12:45 p.m.)
URL11:http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/698651?sortBy=Relevance&ft=iran+textile&offset=100&rpp=20&pos=114 (access date: 06/04/2017, 6:15 p.m.)
URL12:http://www.clevelandart.org/art/1916.1483?collection_search_query=qajar+textile&op=search&form_build_id=form1_NPM5WMd7OcC1lsfCtra4g8WIHfl0ouk366YRGM0E&form_id=clevelandart_collection_search_form (access date: 06/02/2017, 10:15 p.m.)
URL13: http://www.textileasart.com/persian-textile-2354. htm (access date: 06/03/2017, 3:40 p.m.)
URL14:http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/443008?sortBy=Relevance&ft=iran+textile&offset=340&rpp=20&pos=351 (access date: 06/01/2017, 12:00 p.m.)
URL15: http://www.textileasart.com/persian-textile-2884. htm (access date: 06/04/2017, 7:40 p.m.)
 
Glory of Art (Jelve-y Honar) Alzahra Scientific Quarterly Journal
Volume 11, Issue 2 - Serial Number 23
September 2019
Pages 67-80

Files

Share

How to cite

Statistics